Middle Triple Peakjoe's original dartmouth menu

But the ice was superb and offered more freedom than we’d had in days. A piece of ice had caught him off guard; it hit him hard on the side of the head, shoulder and hand. Nevermore can only be seen in its entirety from the west face of Middle Triple Peak. First, the approach. The next 48 hours were passed going from store to store buying squeezy margarine, disks of pilot bread (highly recommended by a local female who no doubt had her eye on Porter) and Australian beer. The thing mocked down the slope at 60mph and finally stopped about a 1/2 mile away from us.

The climber in the foreground is Kitty Calhoun, on the first ascent of Ride the Lightning (VI 5.10 A4 WI3, 4,000', Calhoun-Gerberding-Osman-Smith, 1997) on the west face of Middle Triple Peak.
Once the second load was on top of the pass we looked over the other side and quickly realized the steepness and heavy loads required a technical solution. Everyday we would unzip the tent door, peek outside, and then fall back into the sleeping bag. Once at the base of the route we discovered the fixed lines were totally iced up from the storm. Our Goal Zero The evening of day five the clouds cleared, our hopes rose, and we packed our bags. Golden, CO 80401. Charlie had just cleaned the pitch and was at the belay. THE Middle Triple Peak, a piece of rock and ice, was unclimbed. The face is left with a beautiful talcum dusting of snow.We had considered well the possibilities of hypothermia on the wall and designed our diet and equipment accordingly, leaving few problems unsatisfactorily resolved.Again the stove is refilled to melt more snow for one more water bottle and the avalanches come down the face exposing our ropes. Once we were about 800 vertical feet above the flat glacier we lined up the sled pontoon and let it go!

But since we had it we wanted to use it. “The Spires are probably North America’s closest equivalent to the towers of Patagonia … heavy glaciation, remoteness, bad weather … vertical walls, pinnacles, and obelisks.” (Roberts and Millikan, A.A.J., 1967.

Two hours later we watched, slack-jawed, as literally tons of ice of the hanging glacier broke loose and cover where we had been with 20 feet of ice debris. )“These ‘Triple Peaks’ were a set of beautifully symmetrical summits … smooth granite walls … crests of ice and snow … transplanted from Patagonia.” (DeMaria and Geiser, A.A.J., 1966. Very large and precarious seracs guarded the route on the right side. .

The next morning, we red-lined through the serac zone a third time. The range is 85 air miles west of Talkeetna, Alaska. We were going to bat against an El Capitan sized buttress, with seracs at the base and steep snow guarding the summit.East Buttress, the light colored rock at base is the blank sectionFirst, a bit of history.

We snapped a few photos and we returned to camp. Middle Triple Peak Russell McLean T HE Middle Triple Peak, a piece of rock and ice, was unclimbed.
It was brutal even though we were able to skin within 100 feet of the top of the col. In 2012, Canadian alpinist, Nancy Hansen, and her partner discovered the bottom pitch of rock had literally fallen off the mountain. )“We knew June was the wrong month but … Middle Triple, second highest of the Spires and a splendid prize interfered with our judgment. There is no limit to what the human spirit can aspire for!The East Buttress of Middle Triple Peak has been on our mind for a while. I’m asleep at the wheel, an angry tug from above, sorry to frustrate you, but I was dreaming.Tension off of nested arrows; push the snow off, tap-dancing is damned difficult in these double boots. Pilot Sharp was talking of wing tanks siphoning out on glacier landings, checking compass bearings, altitude, thinking about his machine.

The east face of Mt. In 2012, Canadian alpinist, Nancy Hansen, and her partner discovered the bottom pitch of rock had literally fallen off the mountain. Sleep came easy that night.

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